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Family Size Milk in Rome

6 Apr

When you live in a foreign culture, everything becomes relative to your native culture. Take, for example, milk.

Here in Italy, milk is sold in one-liter bottles. And, it only stays good for about 3 days, tops. I suppose this makes it “fresher.” At least that’s what they’ll tell you here, and please don’t ever contradict an Italian on food, especially if you’re from the States. Because if you’re from the States, you are only qualified to talk about obesity and your home gun collection. Anyhoo, apparently the milk here is pasteurized at a lower temperature than US milk, which tends to last at least ten days or longer, and which you can usually even stretch a couple days past the printed expiration date. (This fact, needless to say, horrifies Italians almost as much as Cheez Whiz.)

Here in Italy, you can choose between the 1-liter bottles of milk in the fridge, or the “UHT” milk which is in 1-liter boxes on the shelves and tends to cost a bit less. This is milk pasteurized at a super high temp so that it doesn’t need refrigeration until it’s opened.

Why am I boring you with a discussion of milk in Rome? Because I am reminded of my shopping at Costco when I lived back in the States from 2008 to 2011. (Italiani: Costo sarebbe più o meno l’equivalente della Metro qui a Roma, solo che devi moltiplicare ancora per 3 volte le misure delle confezioni.) There, it was perfectly normal for me to buy not one, but two, plastic jugs of ONE-POINT-FIVE-GALLON size milk. Meaning, it was completely normal for me in the States to buy ELEVEN LITERS of milk in one fell swoop. And anyways, the expiration dates were three WEEKS out, rather than three days.

The other day one of my Italian mamma friends came over with her two sons who are about the same age as my kiddos. She couldn’t believe we eat dinner around 6 pm or so. But the real shocker was that we drink milk with dinner. Her look was half bemusement and half OMG-ness.

There’s a devilish side of me that loves making Italians squirm over the fact that we drink milk with meals. COLD milk, no less. (Italians have a weird thing about drinking cold drinks, especially kids drinking cold drinks. I do not know why this is so, but it is. Actually, that’s a lie—I do know. They say it will give them stomach cramps. You know, cold beverage = total seizing up of the intestinal apparatus, all 28 feet of it. Come to think of it, everything eventually makes its way back to the topic of digestion or lack thereof, here in Italy.) So I really milked this one for all it was worth. (Pun absolutely and most totally intended, hence the italics! Oooh, amusing myself here!)

I began my torture thus:

“Yeah, we drink a lot of milk around here. In fact, we drink milk with all our meals. Come to think of it, I drank milk with dinner all the way through high school and beyond.

[speechless]

At that point I didn’t have the heart to deal the final, always fatal blow: Americans drink a tall glass of cold milk with pasta. Tell an Italian that and the reaction is akin to the delightfully sadistic feeling you might have experienced while slowly roasting an ant on the sidewalk with a magnifying glass as a kid.

Anyhoo, reminiscing about my 11-liter milk shopping trips, I can only look upon the “family size” milk here in Rome with the same bemused and OMG expression. Because “family size” in Rome is a whopping ONE-POINT-FIVE liters. Wooo! Hold me back, folks! Make way in the fridge for that wide load! I bought two of those the other day and they were gone in as many days. But God, just look how happy the family on the family-size milk is! Red cheeks and all!

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That special offer price of €2,45 is roughly $3.20 for less than a half a gallon of milk, while the US Bureau of Labor Statistics helpfully gives us an average price of a U.S. gallon of milk for each month of every year for the last ten years (!), and for Feb. 2013 we’re at just under $3.50 a gallon.

Now, if only we could get the price of wine in the States to come down to Italian level, we’d have Utopia.

Oh and P.S., if you think I’m the only expat who discusses Italian milk on their blog, well, you’d be wrong. It baffles the best of us.

Oh and P.P.S. another interesting trivial milk fact here. “They say” that the milk sold in the Vatican supermarket is absolutely superior. I had the occasion to taste the Vatican holy milk only once, at breakfast on vacation with some friends, one of whom had the all-hallowed and clearly God-granted privilege of shopping at the mythical Vatican supermarket. And I know I’m about to destroy dreams here, but, it tasted like–well, milk. But the package did have a really cute cow on it.

UPDATE: Ok, silly me, I’m getting old. I did actually post the thing about the Vatican milk. Duh. Here it is. And the picture wasn’t of a cute cow (that must’ve been some other milk I’m thinking of.) Instead, naturally, it’s of the Vatican gardens or something. Best part? It says it’s from Pontifical Villa Farms. YES!

Caffè Propaganda

26 Feb

Came here for a drink with my BFF Arlene. Very Paris bistrot, by the Colosseum. I have to say that my cocktail, special of the week called the “Honky Tonk,” was lovely. St. James Blanc (I still have no idea what this is, but I think it must be some kind of cream liqueur), raspberry, sage, lemon, sugar, and cocoa powder on top.

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This is what it looks like when it’s all gone:

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The cocktail was served with a trendy little plate of munchies. The potato chips tasted like they were made there in the kitchen. They were actually kind of soggy/greasy, but in the end that was kind of good for soaking up the alcohol.

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Unfortunately no one explained to me what the heck was on the plate, so I dove into that little cup with pistachios thinking it was some kind of sweet cream mousse or something, and got a rude awakening when it was kind of pungent and salty. I later overheard a waiter explaining to another customer that it was I believe a pecorino mousse. Hence the salty flavor. I have to say I wasn’t a big fan. But maybe it’s because I was expecting it to be sweet.

Bartender Giorgio was fun, just call me “George,” he says, and come to find out mom is British, and he marveled at how UK mom and Roman dad are still married after all these years. God bless them! I love it! At the end of the evening he posed for me, very come-hither-ish style:

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Lots of the “pretty people” here, and I wouldn’t necessarily take a visiting guest looking for Roman cooking, but the trendy atmosphere is fun for a once-in-a-while break from the ordinary. The whole menu-as-newspaper and the vintage graphic design are fun. I sat at the bar by the cash register and the house phone was ringing off the hook…lots of people making reservations here. And, they have my favorite snob gin, Hendrick’s (infused with cucumbers and rose petals). That in and of itself is cool.

Caffè Propaganda
Via Claudia 15

The Best Coffee in Rome

23 Feb

No, it’s not Sant’Eustachio. And no, even though I like them better than Sant’Eustachio, it’s not Tazza d’Oro, either.

It’s my ongoing, never-ending, visceral passion and true obsession for Cafffè Camerino’s caffè completo.

All those who know me well enough tell me that I’m obsessed.

Exhibit 1: My original post from 2006.

Exhibit 2: When I introduced my BFF Sara Rosso, aka Ms. Adventures in Italy, to it this past summer (and we all got to see how smart she is in geography, too!)

Exhibit 3: When I read Sara’s “How to Order an Italian Coffee in Italy” and realized that the complete coffee she was talking about was “MY” complete coffee, I felt very proud of my shameless promotion and happy that it impressed her enough to include it.

Fine, fine, I own up to it. It’s a torrid affair.

The caffè completo, in short, is an espresso with a dollop of perfectly bitter dark chocolate paste (thicker and more chocolatey and way more sophisticated than anything like Nutella), wrapped all around the little spoon which they place inside the transparent glass, so the chocolate gets all melty in the espresso which they add next, then fresh whipped cream on top, and cocoa powder dusted on that.

Don’t add sugar, for the love of God! Just stir that chocolatey goodness in, then lick the choc off the spoon, spoon the whipped cream, stir it around…

I often think of the infamous scene in “When Harry Met Sally” when I drink this coffee. You know the one. The “I’ll have what she’s having” one.

I am so obsessed with this coffee that I feel constantly compelled to blog about it, but in the spirit of not being totally redundant, instead of another photo, today I took a video with my morning cornetto (with apricot jam super sugary yumyumyum).

No, clearly I am not normal. What of it?

Did you hear how possessive I got when he didn’t realize it was mine? It’s like I was about to throw down. Do you hear my “mmmm” at the end? I was like shaking with anticipation.

I think the only next logical step from here on out is either ask one of the barista guys on a date or try to get hired there.

Those being my options, I think I’ll just keep paying my €1 and try to leave my obsession alone. Trust me, it is, in the words of Ferris Bueller, so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.

Cafffè Camerino
Largo Arenula 30 (in front of the 8 tram depot at Largo Argentina)

PS For the total indulgent sweet tooth experience, grab a gelato at Corona Gelateria next door. You will not be sorry! Especially in the summer when they have lemon with basil…OMG. People, hold me back!

Sambuca Really is For Old Men in the Country

10 Nov

And this is the proof. As I’ve told you before, sambuca being my preferred adult beverage on this side of the pond, I often get teased, weird looks, and general perplexity from the Itals. Apparently, so they tell me, NO ONE really drinks sambuca. Except! There’s always an except, we’re in Rome, folks. The except is: EXCEPT for old men who live in the little hill towns in the country. They drink the stuff up like it was water, apparently. Sitting out in front of their houses and reminiscing about when they were younger, and clearly didn’t drink sambuca, because, let me repeat: only old men in hill towns drink sambuca.

And me.

Well, I always thought it was just an urban legend, used by my dear friends to shame me. But alas! No!

A few weekends ago I happened to be in a supermarket in “said hill town” not far outside of Rome (I believe it was Palestrina) and at the end of my little grocery trip, I went looking for a bottle of my beloved. Strange, think I. No Sambuca? Hmmm. Wait! What’s that, you say? A big hole on the shelf?

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Yes indeed folks, a big, gaping hole. Right where my sambuca normally sits. When it’s in Rome and not in a hill town where there must be a bunch of old men who made the damn grocery store SELL OUT of the stuff that in Rome, when I ask for it at a bar, they can’t even find the frickin’ bottle because, allow me to repeat: NO ONE drinks the stuff! Except…

Yelp in Rome – Yelp.it in Italia

22 Sep

yelp

Clicca qui per l’italiano

Exciting news, my lovely readers! Yelp.com is now in Italy as Yelp.it.

You’ve got the scoop here as one of the first to know, because I was one of their super secret Rome scouts! I had the privilege of getting to review lots of businesses and services that I use here in Rome to help them launch their site.

In fact, check out all my reviews on my Yelp.it profile!

Here’s an article in Italian in Wired.

And then, why not add some of your own reviews for Rome as well?!!

Spread the word!

yelp

Ragazzi, ho una novita’ e uno scoop per voi! Yelp.com, un sito che in america e’ lo standard d’oro per trovare tutti i posti migliori dove andare a mangiare, tagliarsi i capelli, ecc. ecc., e’ finalmente arrivato in Italia!

Si, infatti andate subito a scoprire il nuovissimo Yelp.it!

Il motivo per cui lo sito e’ diventato il compagno piu’ affidato dagli americani (e anche altri paesi nel mondo) e’ perche’ tutte le recensioni sono fatte da persone vere. Infatti, da adesso in poi avete una rete gigantesca di persone da consultare per qualsiasi cosa, dai ristoranti, ai centri benessere, ai medici. Subito li’!

Li’ vi ho dato il link al mio profilo, perche’ ho avuto l’onore di essere uno dei primi recensori sul sito, essendo uno “scout” per loro. E’ stata un’esperienza molto divertente e sono super fiera di aver avuto una parte in questo evento straordinario!

Vi consiglio vivamente di iscrivervi subito. Vi assicuro che fra un po’ vi sentirete “super fighi” per poter dire che eravate fra i primi iscritti!

Sicuramente fra poco vi troverete fra gli amici, tutti con i vostri smart phones, a decidere dove andare a mangiare, facendo la gara per chi e’ piu’ veloce ad utilizzare Yelp per trovare il posto adatto.

Ecco un articolo in Italiano nella rivista Wired.

Spargete la voce!

The best bartender in Rome – Il barman migliore di Roma

22 Jul

Clicca qui per l’italiano

Have you ever tried to get a cocktail in Rome?

In my experience, it can be a very disappointing event. I have had some of the nastiest cocktails in existence here in Rome. I don’t know why. Maybe the whole wine culture thing. No real idea. But people, let me just tell you that the cocktail gods were smiling in my favor yesterday. I have discovered the best cocktail-maker and shaker in all of Rome. Yes, indeedy. It’s Christmas in July.

Honestly, it is Christmas in July.

Because my bartender’s name? It’s Christmas. Swear to God. I mean, translated, it’s Christmas. In real life Italian it’s actually “Natale.” Which, folks? First time I ever met a guy named Natale and let me just tell you, when I introduced myself and he introduced himself as “Nat”? So cool. Love the name Nat!

So, my new friend Nat here, asks me what I want to drink. “Alcoholic or non-alcholic?”

(I did not know that bartenders asked such rhetorical questions! That was fun!)

So then he asks about what kind of drink. “Sweet?”

Bleh.

Say I: “I want an adult drink.”

The only indication I gave him was that I like sour drinks. My favorite is the lemon drop martini. I told him, something sour. Go with that.

The man says to me “THE WHITE LADY.”

Oooh, baby! Ok! The white lady! Work it!

It was, in a word: fabulous. So fabulous, in fact, that me and my new favorite bartender had to strike a pose with the “white lady” herself:

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Oh my, are we not super fabulous, the three of us all together, one big happy adult drink family? Love. Love. Love.

Go see Nat! I promise you will not be disappointed! He is a master mixologist, folks. And so convenient, right downtown. Go! Go! Go!

Studio Le Bain
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 33

Ragazzi, ieri ho trovato il barman piu’ talentuoso di tutta la capitale, nella mia umile opinione.

Per una serie di circostanze, mi e’ capitato di trovarmi dentro il locale Le Bain che ora e’ sotto gestione nuova e’ quindi si chiama “Studio Le Bain,” un posto elegante e bellissimo con un banco che ti prega con tutte le sue forze di resistere la tentazione di bere, ben sapendo che non riuscerai mai, mai, mai.

Ancora meno sara’ il tuo potere di resistere, una volta che conosci Natale.

Natale! Detto “Nat”! Quanto ti voglio bene!

Ora, vi rivelo un piccolissimo consiglio utile: nella vita, quando vi trovate nelle mani di un esperto nel suo campo, lasciatevi andare. Non suggerire al maestro come fare il suo lavoro. Fatevi sorprendere. Come ho fatto io.

“Alcolico o non alcolico?” mi chiede, diciamo anche un po’ ingenuamente, il nostro Natale, visto la sottoscritta.

Sorrido. (Ma i barman chiedono queste domande retoriche? Chi lo sapeva?!) “Ah, va bene,” lui dice. “Alcolico. Ok. Dolce?”

DOLCE?!!? Ancora non mi conosce. Va bene. Tempo c’e’. La sera e’ ancora giovane.

“Una bibita da adulto. Un qualcosa con delle palle.”

Ora e’ lui che sorride. Non gli dico nient’altro a parte che mi piacciono i cocktail aspri e bevo sempre in america i martini lemondrop (che sono praticamente quello che voi chiamate vodka-lemon, ma con un po’ di zucchero sul bordo del bicchiere).

Natale si mette a lavora’. Che spettacolo.

Dopo un po’, ne esce il suo capolavoro fatto a misura per me.

Ragazzi: osservatela.
Ammiratela.
Desideratela.

Vi do’: LA DONNA BIANCA. Ovvero, THE WHITE LADY. (Tutti insieme ora: oooooooo…. aaaaaaaa….)

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Avete visto che bella la donnina bianca? Grazie, Nat. Meriti tutto il mio rispetto.

Voglia di cocktail, ragazzi? Mettetevi eleganti e andate subitissimo. Salutatemi poi Natale.

Studio Le Bain
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 33

Stitch ‘n Bitch Finally Comes to Rome

23 Oct

The day has been long awaited—but finally, finally, knitters in Rome no longer have to hide at home! The “knitting revolution” has touched down in Rome thanks to a small group of brave women who have formed what I believe is the first ever official Stitch ‘n Bitch group here in Rome.

Stitch ‘n Bitch, you say? What’s that? And is that there a bad word? Not anymore!

As far as I know, the first SnB group was formed by Debbie Stoller in New York, who went on to write a series of knitting books of the same name. Knitters in a town or city pick a designated place and time where they meet regularly to knit together and chat. I’m thinking it’s like the modern-day version of a quilting bee or something.

There is an entire website for SnB in the UK, as well as a page for the Chicago group that lists groups around the US and the world.

Well, if you read my post about knitting here in Rome, then you know that knitting is reserved pretty much for the grannies. It’s not too trendy ’round these parts, especially for women in their 20s, 30s and 40s. You won’t see anyone knitting on public transport, or pretty much anywhere in public, for that matter. Despite that, I always wondered if it would be possible to get a knitting group going here in Rome.

About a month ago, I had had about enough of the wondering. I had gotten back into knitting pretty hard core (currently divided among 10 needles: two different socks and the sleeve for a jacket, plus a set of fair-isle mittens in the planning stages to match my hat), but bitching to myself wasn’t as fun as it used to be. I needed some fellow stitchers. So I sent out a bit of an all-call on a couple expat forums to see if anyone might be as crazy as me. I got nine responses in two days, and had a little group ready to go.

Then about a day later, I received an email telling me that an actual Stitch ‘n Bitch group had just been formed that week (synchronicity, anyone?) by an Australian expat, that was meeting in my neighborhood. Bingo! I got in touch with her and we combined forces to create the only public knitting circle I know of here in the Eternal City.

Oh, yes, people, we do get the double-takes. It’s all good though. We have a lovely little spot where we meet called The Good Caffè, which defines itself as a “small luxury bar.”

I’d say that’s a pretty apt description. Despite the fact that they are located close to John Cabot University (with all due respect, read: Animal House), they have managed to maintain a very cozy, laid-back and elegant wine bar feel. Not so for another bar I saw on my walk over, which at about 7:30 pm was just hanging out a huge professionally printed signboard that read, big and bold: €2 shots.

God bless the little wine bars like Good who haven’t fallen prey to the debauched masses.

But I digress. So, mille mille grazie to Andrea and the rest of the great staff at the Good, for giving us a better than good place to knit to our hearts’ content. One evening a week they let us take over the back room, complete with street lamps and plush green velvet chairs and couches, to lounge, drink, and chat. And knit, of course.

The only time we get the puzzled glances is when people have to walk by us to go to the restroom.

Here’s a little action shot for you:

Our group has about 15 or 20 members I think, but the nice thing is that it’s totally flexible so people can come when they want, no obligation. Now that it’s off the ground, it’s pretty independent and there’s no hierarchy or anything. Some of the more experienced knitters are teaching beginners and getting them well on their way to their first scarves. I’ve now officially taught two people how to knit…so fun!

All the group’s projects are in progress now, so no FOs (finished objects) yet to post, but there is definitely enough expertise to go around. One member of our group, who actually found us through a comment she left about knitting on my blog, knits for her lucky husband who gets to wear incredible creations like this and this. It’s wonderful when beginners and advanced knitters can get together and share knowledge.

Last but not least, one other great thing about the Good is that they sponsor artists and musicians by displaying their artwork, holding inaugurations and staging concerts. In just the last two weeks of October they have two artist/photographer inaugurations and two concerts. This place is a fantastic little find, tucked in one of the rare quiet corners of the busy side of Trastevere. Highly recommended for a glass of wine while you’re strolling the cobblestone alleys.

Good Food Drink and Wireless Via San Dorotea 8/9, Trastevere

Stitch ‘n Bitch: for more info, email me.