The Best Coffee in Rome

23 Feb

No, it’s not Sant’Eustachio. And no, even though I like them better than Sant’Eustachio, it’s not Tazza d’Oro, either.

It’s my ongoing, never-ending, visceral passion and true obsession for Cafffè Camerino’s caffè completo.

All those who know me well enough tell me that I’m obsessed.

Exhibit 1: My original post from 2006.

Exhibit 2: When I introduced my BFF Sara Rosso, aka Ms. Adventures in Italy, to it this past summer (and we all got to see how smart she is in geography, too!)

Exhibit 3: When I read Sara’s “How to Order an Italian Coffee in Italy” and realized that the complete coffee she was talking about was “MY” complete coffee, I felt very proud of my shameless promotion and happy that it impressed her enough to include it.

Fine, fine, I own up to it. It’s a torrid affair.

The caffè completo, in short, is an espresso with a dollop of perfectly bitter dark chocolate paste (thicker and more chocolatey and way more sophisticated than anything like Nutella), wrapped all around the little spoon which they place inside the transparent glass, so the chocolate gets all melty in the espresso which they add next, then fresh whipped cream on top, and cocoa powder dusted on that.

Don’t add sugar, for the love of God! Just stir that chocolatey goodness in, then lick the choc off the spoon, spoon the whipped cream, stir it around…

I often think of the infamous scene in “When Harry Met Sally” when I drink this coffee. You know the one. The “I’ll have what she’s having” one.

I am so obsessed with this coffee that I feel constantly compelled to blog about it, but in the spirit of not being totally redundant, instead of another photo, today I took a video with my morning cornetto (with apricot jam super sugary yumyumyum).

No, clearly I am not normal. What of it?

Did you hear how possessive I got when he didn’t realize it was mine? It’s like I was about to throw down. Do you hear my “mmmm” at the end? I was like shaking with anticipation.

I think the only next logical step from here on out is either ask one of the barista guys on a date or try to get hired there.

Those being my options, I think I’ll just keep paying my €1 and try to leave my obsession alone. Trust me, it is, in the words of Ferris Bueller, so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.

Cafffè Camerino
Largo Arenula 30 (in front of the 8 tram depot at Largo Argentina)

PS For the total indulgent sweet tooth experience, grab a gelato at Corona Gelateria next door. You will not be sorry! Especially in the summer when they have lemon with basil…OMG. People, hold me back!

Washing Dishes in Capri

22 Feb

At 8:15, to be precise.

Limited edition, folks. Try not to be jealous.

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Oh, and BTW? It really is pronounced CAH-pree, not ca-PREE. Even though everyone will look at you funny if you say it that way in the non-Italian-speaking world. Just like if you go to a restaurant like the renounced renowned Olive Garden and try to order a bru-SKET-tah instead of a brush-etta. (Cute, brushetta. Like a little brush, kind of?)

Depressing Effects of Globalization on Rome

20 Feb

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Jumping Without a Safety Net

20 Feb

Living life as an expat has so many challenges, and one of the cardinal rules I’ve learned that has served me quite well is simply this: jump, and the net will appear.

It sounds so naive and so reckless, and yet, part of living abroad for me is a continual risk, in the sense that life is uncertain, and trying to pretend that everything is going to fall into place perfectly in the “five year plan” for me is just an illusion.

Let me get esoteric on you here.

Take a look at this image:

This is a Tarot card; this card is the first in the deck: “The Fool.”

He is the perfect example of “jump and the net will appear.” (A quote attributed to John Burroughs)

Sometimes, ignorance is bliss, and sometimes, being foolish brings the biggest rewards.

My move to Rome back in 2001 was an act of “foolishness” that has led me down so many various and exciting paths, and brought so many wonderful people into my life, and has asked me time and time again to just walk off that cliff and wait for the invisible net to appear. The archetypical “fool’s journey” represented by the tarot also for me reflects what it’s like to jump into life in a foreign country and make your way through the unknown to eventually come out the other side somewhere, only to then start all over again!

Why do I bother to post this at all? Because I find time and again that articles like my BFF blogger buddy Sara’s recent “Stop Sabotaging Your Own Success: A Manifesto” always seem to resonate with so many people who want to take a chance, but for some reason just hang on the edge of that cliff. As of today, 195 commenters and many, many “likes” and shares attest to the fact that we can take heart that we’re not alone when we want to take a risk but need a push, or feel afraid.

I was recently reading this biography of Albert Einstein, and was pleasantly reassured when I saw that he had tried for so many job openings prior to getting hired at the Swiss Patent Office (and even then only through a close personal connection), that he actually had to take an ad out in a newspaper offering his services as a math and physics tutor:

Sometimes we have to be less black and white about things, and about life in general. The only thing that is certain is that everything changes. Finding a way to balance a scientific and rational view of the world with a more open, curious, child-like and mysterious view of the world, for me has become a tricky but effective combination necessary for a *usually* successful life as an expat. The bottom line is, it’s never too late. And we are often our own worst enemies.

Cultivating faith in life and in the fact that no matter what happens, happens for a reason, has often helped me to get through days where I wondered what the heck I was doing here. And it applies not only to expat life, but to life anywhere, at any time. When your heart is calling, leap, and the net will appear. And most of all, take other people’s opinions into account, but then go with what you feel in your gut is the right thing to do. We give way too little weight and value to our inner intuition and I think that cultivating intuition is one of life’s great gifts, and something we all have hidden deep down.

Years ago I wrote a post about my expat experience, called Bread and Tulips, and I realize now that as I raise three (!!) little half-Roman half-Americans, I’m kind of starting that journey all over again. It’s a 34 year old viewing Rome again with the eyes of that 24 year old who first came here nearly 11 years ago and met her future husband, father of her kids, and future ex, all on day one! Life has its ups and downs. Cultivating faith that in the end, that net is going to be there, is one way of finding trust in life and trust in the bigger order of things.

“To be fully alive, fully human, and completely awake is to be continually thrown out of the nest.”
― Pema Chödrön

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10 OTC pharmacy/medicine equivalents in Italy

18 Feb

Tackling the farmacia in Italy can be a challenge when you’re visiting, because besides the fact that probably most or all of the brand names of the OTC drugs are different than your brand names from back home, another hurdle is that even the OTC meds are kept behind the counter. That means that if your pharmacist doesn’t speak a word of English, it can be a challenge to get what you need. ù

I remember an embarrassing scene I had 10 years ago when I had first arrived in Italy. I desperately needed Band-Aids because I had a major shaving blunder on both ankles and the bleeding wouldn’t stop. I walk into the pharmacy and there’s a gaggle of old ladies discussing their health issues in frenetic Italian with the pharmacist. I was in little homey San Lorenzo and there wasn’t another tourist in sight. When I came in it was like Moses parting the waters. Everyone turned to look and there I was, in the spotlight. Geez. Of course Bandaids weren’t easily on display, or in supermarkets like they are now, so I had to start in my super broken Italian. First I try explaining that I got a cut. Puzzled looks, all around. Now the old ladies are really into it. I’m sure they were thinking in their heads whatever the elderly Italian lady version of WTF is. Anyhow, after a lot of hemming and hawing (yes, I actually hawed, more than once), the pharmacist looks at me and literally a light bulb goes off over his head. I swear, I saw it. And he goes:

“OOOOHHHHH!!! You mean you wanta Band-aida?”

Uh, yeah. Guess I could have saved myself some time. It was this big procedure, taking the box of bandaids out of their special drawer behind the counter, carefully wrapping them up in tissue paper, carefully scotch-taping the whole confection shut. Gee whiz man, you would have thought I was buying an elaborate gift.

So, let me spare you the drama and therapy-inducing experience described above. Here, I give you, my top 10 OTC drug equivalents in Italian pharmacies.

1) Ibuprofen (Advil) = Moment. Sold in boxes of 200mg caplets. You don’t have to specify the dosage because 200mg is the standard. Then there are Moment’s brothers and sisters: Moment Act (400 mg), Momendol (220 mg) which I think they market for backaches and menstrual cramps, and the pink Moment which you can ask for “bustine” if you prefer a powder that dissolves in water.

2) Acetaminophen/Paracetamol (Tylenol/Panadol/Calpol) = Efferalgan (eff-air-AHLL-gahn) or Tachipirina (tahky-pier-EE-nah) Efferalgan is a tablet that dissolves in water and you drink it. Tachipirina is a caplet, or, for babies, you can get suppositories, called “supposte.” (soo-POH-stay)

3) Antihistamine (Pseudoephedrine) = Reactine (ray-AK-teen)

There’s also Fexofenadine (Allegra) = Telfast and Cetirizine (Zyrtec) which also goes by Zyrtec in Italy.

4) Heartburn/nausea medicine. Italians don’t really say “heartburn” they say “bruciore di stomaco” (stomach burn). They use the Alka Seltzer equivalent (Sodium bicarbonate and citric acid) called Citrosodina which is a powder that dissolves in water, or you can have a chewable (masticabile = mah-stee-CAH-bee-lay). There’s also a product in grocery stores that’s basically the equivalent of baking soda, but it becomes a fizzy drink like Alka Seltzer, called Brioschi (bree-OH-skee).

There’s also Maalox, and there’s something that lots of Italians have told me they swear by, called Geffer, which I’ve never heard of in the States, called Reglan (active ingredient metoclopramide). Trust me, if you feel nauseous and have to puke, Geffer will get it done.

5) Diarrea medicine (loperamide). Easy, it’s called Immodium here too.

6) Cough syrup. Dextromethorphan (Robitussin DM) = Bisolvon.

7) Sore throat. Lozenges = Benegol Spray or gargle = Tantum Verde

8) Condoms are called preservativi. They are often also sold in machines outside of pharmacies. And often now condoms are on display on the counter so you don’t have to ask for them.

9) Sleeping aids. Melatonin = melatonina. Valerian = valeriana. The equivalent of the famous Tylenol PM would be “Aliserin” but it requires a prescription here.

10) Vomiting and rehydrating solution. This is particularly important if you are traveling with a child who gets ill. It’s awful having to wonder what the heck the locals might call “Pedialyte.” Here in Italy they sell little juice boxes in the pharmacies of a liquid called “Dicodral” and that’s the equivalent of Pedialyte, and it’s orange flavored. And my children’s pharmacist always tells me to give the kiddos “Biochetasi” for nausea and “Tiorfix” for diarrea, both are OTC medicines. For adults to stop vomiting there’s a syrup called Plasil.

Hope you don’t need any of these, but if you do, hope this list helps!

If you find yourself with a medicine in Italy and you don’t know what the brand name equivalent is, you can look it up here:

International Drug Name Database

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Italian Musical Pillow

17 Feb

And now, in the big eye roll category, I give you:

“Guanciale Demasonic” : The Demasonic Pillow

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Just proves that the acronym WTF has more uses than I ever could have imagined!

Because, are you kidding me?

Tagline: “The musical pillow for your free time.”

This, apparently, is for people who don’t realize that you can put earbuds in your ears AND put your head on your pillow at the same time?

?

But wait, there’s more! As there always is!

What would be the logical way to take this invention just ONE STEP FURTHER?

By all means, click here.

That’s right, folks. The iPod pillow. Unauthorized and ready for your free time.

Oh, BTW? Don’t mind me mocking this stuff. I’m just a lowly plebe. Seems the celebs in the UK love the “Soundasleep Speaker Pillow.

Sweet dreams, or as we say around here, sogni d’oro!

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Mamma Che Pane

16 Feb

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Ahhh, love. Yes, love when Carnevale rolls around and the fried crispy powdered sugar covered deliciousness of frappe comes back to Rome. Ooooh I could eat these all day. It’s like when you eat too much candy corn and get a stomach ache. I eat these literally until I don’t know when to stop. They only come out around February because they’re to celebrate Mardi Gras, Carnevale, however you want to call the period of gastronomical debauchery prior to the Lenten season.

Check out how cute these two are! This is Adele (ah-DEH-lay) and Valeria, showing the good stuff they’ve got going at Mamma Che Pane.

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Look at Adele, how adorable she is! She is demonstrating the typical Roman hand gesture for “buono” when food tastes yummy. You stick your index finger in your cheek and turn it. No I don’t know why. It just is so.

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As if the frappe weren’t enough to make me weak in the knees, how about all this:

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“Accoppiati con Nutella Ferrero” — first, they specify that it’s “Ferrero” meaning ain’t no sad imitations around here, we use the real deal. Second, they call these cookies which are sandwich cookies with Nutella in the middle “accoppiati” (coupled) which in the spoken Italian I’ve heard used as the equivalent of “mating,” therefore qualifying them as the best-named cookies in Rome, as far as I’m concerned. I’ll take 5 mating cookies, please.

But wait! There’s more!

Smiling Nutella, anyone? Yes, please.

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How about buy 10, get two free? An Italian version of “cheaper by the dozen”?

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As I was snapping away, Adele says to me “Hey! Try this! It’s foccaccia with prosciutto affumicato!” Tip: taking pictures in an Italian forno will sometimes score you freebies. Weee! I ended up buying some. It was absolutely amazing.

Bread, bread, mamma che pane!

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Plus they have an entire section of meats and cheeses that I didn’t even have time to get to. Man… so much yummy stuff to eat, so little time.

Mamma Che Pane
Via Aristide Leonori 78
00147 Roma
Hours
Mon-Sat 9:00 – 13:00
Mon-Sat 16:00 – 20:00

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